Palm Springs: Trio Restaurant

Palm Springs doesn’t have a reputation for being home to innovative eating. It plays it safe with the likes of CPK, Roy’s Hawaiian and LG’s steakhouse.

Only recently, the emergence of younger weekend travelers - seen in the success of spots like The Ace Hotel - has spawned a demand for more dynamic dining.

Trio is one of the restaurants that seeks to fill that void.



Serving modern American cuisine, Trio is casual upscale dining in an aesthetic setting that echoes Palm Spring’s mid-century modernist sentiment. It’s sharp, clean and elegant, but a techno music backdrop, makes for accessible elegance.



A similar elegance is featured in the soy ceviche (8): a mixture of edamame, tofu, tomato, cucumber, avocado, and cilantro dressed in sriracha, chili, and lime, playfully served in a martini glass. Both bright and refreshing, you’ll hardly realize the fish were spared in this dish.



Trio’s entrees exhibit culinary poise and maturity without sacrificing innovation. The butternut squash ravioli (17) is rich and genuinely tasted autumnal with it brown butter and oven crisped sage leaves.

Trio’s scallops (19) were seaside tender. Seared rare, the scallops pulled apart with little resistance and proved delicate tasting in their white wine pear sauce. Equally toothsome, the hash brown-like mound of spaghetti squash was just as light and flavorful.



Trio’s entrees are mostly priced near twenty dollars, but taste, quality, and composition assure worthiness.

Currently, Trio boasts a $19 daily prix fixe from 4-6 p.m., which offers numerous menu items, including the ravioli. Even without the prix fixe, Trio’s good food - and its unassuming atmosphere - makes it a much needed desert oasis.




Trio Restaurant
707 North Palm Canyon Drive
Palm Springs
CA 92262
(760) 864-8746
www.triopalmsprings.com/

Los Angeles: Artisanal LA Holiday Pop-Up shop

New locavore marketing collective, Artisanal LA, once again brought together a cadre of foodie craftsfolk for a one weekend only holiday pop-up shop in Downtown Los Angeles.

The event, held Dec. 11-12, coincided with other nearby craft-oriented events, Unique LA and the Renegade Holiday Craft Fair, ensuring plenty of interested visitors.

Tickets for the culinary pop-up were six dollars. The event featured product tastings from various artisanal foodstuff providers in and around LA.



Featured vendors included local bakers and pastry tastings from such artisans as Creme de Caramel LA, the Flying Pie Man to planting seeds from Farmscape Gardens.



Cast Iron Gourmet was also on-site offering fresh-cooked tastings, as well as spice rubs and small-batched proteins.



Other participating vendors included San Angel Mole, with a trio of mole tastings, and San Diego’s own Sono Trading Company, with tastings of their Mostly Organic Mustard line.



With dozens of other food purveyors, including Cold Brew and Cola, who featured their coffee and cola cocktails, Artisanal LA’s pop-up was an amusing, albeit short-winded event. While for foodies, it’s like a miniature version of the Comic-Con, the six dollar cover is an injustice for what can at best be a thirty minute muse.

http://artisanalla.com/

Los Angeles: Simon LA

Hotel restaurants are by definition overpriced. And in spite of their design or luxury, they can also be hit or miss. Chef célèbre Kerry Simon’s self-titled Simon LA, inside the Sofitel Hotel, is precisely that: a high priced, chic and luxurious offering of updated American comfort food.



Simon’s menu features various starters, salads, and pizzas. Mains, priced mostly in the thirty dollar range, are served sans sides. They’ll run you an extra nine dollars each.

Simon LA’s bread basket is a festive array of choice: poblano pepper corn bread, cheese crisps, savory flake pastries, in addition to miniature sourdough loaves and cheese biscuits.



Starters include such items as both tomato and squash soup, and lobster pot pie. The day’s special was a trio of scallops on a bed of mango chutney (14). The scallops were toothsomely tender; their seasoned taste contrasted well with the citric brightness of the mango mixture.

Above, Simon LA’s watermelon margarita is hardly a girly drink - it was both potent and tasty enough to have me thinking that twelve dollars for a drink wasn’t such a bad idea after all.



On a slather of sunchoke puree topped with vegetables and a morel sauce, lamb chop (38) are served in a criss-cross pattern. While the puree was somewhat bland, the lamb chop was rich in fat - a good thing - and generously seasoned.



Not exactly American comfort food, Simon LA’s bamboo steamed fish (32) is like the solid form of tom yum in a box: a beautifully steamed chunk of fish and bok choy flavored in lemon grass, ginger, and kaffir lime leaf. Served with a flowering garnish of pickled ginger and a dipping sauce, the fish’s flavors were delicate and as tasty was they were aromatic.



For dessert, the fig tart (10) is a keenly composed flake pastry of meticulously arranged fig wedges topped with powdered sugar and flanked by a dollop of sweet goat cream cheese and three ascending dots of balsamic reduction. It’s both delectable and dividable by two.

Simon LA is so polished that it’s easy to forget it’s American comfort food. But Its chic design and service is far from cumbersome - as many dressed down customers arrive as those who dress up. Refreshingly, all are treated equally.



Simon LA
8555 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, Ca 90048
1(310) 358-3979

http://www.simonlarestaurant.com/index.cfm

Costa Mesa, CA: Valhalla Table

Repeated drives to eat in Los Angeles have resulted in a subconscious routine of mild veering exercises and vehicular slow downs when approaching the Bristol Street freeway exit.
Here, in the already upscale, but regentrified anyway area of Costa Mesa, dubbed SOBECA - south of Bristol in Costa Mesa, is a little place called Valhalla Table.

It’s Costa Mesa’s take on downtown LA’s brat-babe Wurstkuche - an urban themed craft beer and gourmet bratwurst eatery.



With an emphasis on street food, Valhalla Table headlines hand-made all-natural sausages in a industrialist environment comprised of counter service and a large communal table. Smaller tables are also available.

Most appetizers are under seven dollars and range in diversity from shoyu chicken wings to waffles and sausage. VT’s Belgian fries ($3.50) are crispy and salt savvy. The now expected twisted includes a choice in unexpected dipping sauce flavors: Valhalla’s aren’t terribly provocative with the exception of mango curry mayo.

Also on the starter menu are Valhalla’s freshly fried pork rinds ($6.50) served with a sweet (possibly plum) sauce. The result? Well, there’s very little comparable to eating barely crisped rinds.



Valhalla’s sausage sandwiches include classic flavors for six dollars and choices for edgy eating for seven. For the adventurous, VT’s protein picks include wild boar balinese, chimichurri lamb and feta and buffalo and pistachio. VT also offers vegetarian sausages such as the spicy mango chickin.

VT’s Korean BBQ beef sausage is moist, packed with subtle flavors. The duck, bacon and jalapeno (below) isn’t very spicy, but is rich in flavor as well. Also notable, is Valhalla’s toasted but still soft bread.

Grilled sausage sandwiches are served with one topping. Included toppers are sweet peppers (picture above), caramelized onions (below), salsa verde, as well as a few other fixings. Additional toppings are dollar each. A condiment cart is also at hand.




While LA food trips usually result in eating in LA, Valhalla Table means ocassional veers and freeway slowdowns are prone to continue.

Valhalla Table
2981 Bristol Street (The CAMP)
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Phone: (714) 549-2960
www.valhallatable.com

Sea Rocket Bistro, North Park

When The Linkery packed up its things to move closer to the heart of North Park, another restaurant soon took its place. It retained the Linkery’s ambience and its furniture, but took on a new name: Sea Rocket Bistro. An uneventful name, if not altogether silly, it does little to pique curiosity.
And though a quick Google search reveals sea rocket to be an oceanfront plant, even with such purpose and inspiration, it’s still silly enough to bring to mind a shoe brand or a burger and shake joint.

Silly name aside, Sea Rocket’s concept is a smart one: seafood done sustainably and seasonally.



Sea Rocket’s menu is limited, but changes often. In celebration of San Diego Beer Week, Nov. 5-14, the restaurant offered a thirty dollar prix fixe menu that not only served beer pairings, but whose courses each included it as an ingredient.

The three course menu began with beer and gouda cheese onion soup, which while served tepid, was flavorful. Another interesting soup item is the sea urchin bisque(13) - a creamy and not overly fishy soup served in the urchin’s spiky shell. The bisque, generous enough for two, was smooth and buttery.



In addition to soups, Sea Rocket’s appetizer list includes a hearty ceviche (9). In addition to ceviche’s usual acidity, complemented with red onions and cantaloupe chunks, this ceviche was delicately sweet.



SRB’s second beer course was a beer-glazed fish, currently opah. Opah steak is served with a glaze similar to teriyaki atop a mound of brown rice. The glaze was tasty, but its beer taste mostly imperceptible. The rice itself left much to be desired.



Since SRB’s philosophy is market driven, fish dishes are centered around current choices. The pan-seared fish, also opah (16), is a tastier option. Served with mashed winter squash and sauteed greens, its chimichurri seasoning is an herbaceously nice touch.



SRB’s Beer Week dessert course included one of three miniature cupcakes. In addition to beer, this cupcake also included poblano peppers as an ingredient. That said, savory ingredients posed no threat - this was a sweet bite.

Also on SRB’s dessert menu is a chilled bread pudding (7), a rich chunky cake-like dish, which shared many of the qualities of typical bread pudding without its delicious warmth.



SRB’s food is a bit heavy-handed, or clumsy in presentation, but provides worthwhile flavors and an unpretentious creativity. Its casual ambience and excellent service make it a good replacement for its community-driven predecessor.

Sea Rocket Bistro
3382 30th Street
San Diego, CA
92104
(619) 255-7049
www.searocketbistro.com

Mignon Pho + Grill, Kearny Mesa

Outside of work-related convenience, making it a habit to get your Asian fare in San Diego at places like Panda Express or Pick up Stix is unforgivable. Especially, if you’re anywhere near the Kearny Mesa area. A week hardly goes by without a new opening in the area. It’s conceivable that you can eat here every day for a year without repeating a single establishment.

The beauty of it is that there’s something for everyone. Some places are no frills and cater to hardcore Asiatic gastronomes, others are all-accessible - ideal for the curious newbie nosher.

Mignon pho+grill caters to that crowd, serving their version of pho, beef noodle stew, in an accessibly pick and choose form for about a dollar over what the usual Vietnamese joint charges. Mignon’s twist is in its name - their prime offering is a pho stew served with filet mignon.



In addition to typical Vietnamese tofu and roll appetizers, Mignon serves more than half a dozen skewer plates, as well as frog legs and chicken wings tossed in, yes, fish sauce.

The beef tongue skewers ($4.75) were grilled and seasoned tastily. They’re smartly served with a mound of ground pepper and lime wedge which gave them an excellent contrast of heartiness and acidity; however, it was tragic to find the skewers tough and chewy.

The pork stuffed egg rolls, or cha gio ($4), were unusually plump. Along with a crispy texture, their innards were a good blend of pork and vermicelli noodle. The usual inclusion of romaine and mint greens for wrapping were notably fresh, as well as obedient of the Cha Gio Commandment: Thou shalt provide enough lettuce for every roll.
Sure enough, in this case, Mignon went four for four.



Mignon’s regular pho bowl gives finicky eaters the freedom create their own. Six dollars for a regular, and seven for a large, you’re allowed three ingredients, including but not limited to beef meatballs, brisket, various steaks and tofus.

The filet mignon pho is $7.50 for a regular. Its generous portion of tender filet mignon, proved a different pho experience: the filet mignon wasn’t served in shaved slices, but rather as a hearty slab. The meat felt fresh, but was not surprisingly tasteful. The pho’s broth was fragrant and clean. While not weak, the presence of anise and clove was too subtle to call superb.

Below, mignon’s pho aromatics are a crisp and beautiful array of greens, jalapenos, bean sprouts, and lime wedges.



With its generous open space and wood covered walls, Mignon’s ambiance is modern and casual minimalism. Loyalists and contrarians will tell you cheaper and better pho can be had elsewhere, but mignon’s intent is a clean and updated experience. In that, it’s a relatively refreshing success.


Mignon Pho + Grill
3860 Convoy Street, Suite 116 + 117
San Diego, California
92111

http://sandiegopho.com/index.html

Los Angeles: First and Hope Downtown Supper Club

First & Hope is another one of those L.A. head scratchers that might be poorly described as the opposite of a hole in the wall. It’s one of those restaurants that will definitely have you fine dining, but also worrying about being mugged, or at the very least, having your car broken into. The neighborhood is sketchy.

Located in a nondescript corner strip mall in DTLA, it’s a lovely neon blue homage to 40’s swank. You’ll see it glowing from the gritty downtown street in the late night hours. It’s enchanting to look at: both sleek and glamorous, like its hostesses who come to work draped in satin.

First & Hope specializes in fancy cocktails and smart southern-inspired American cuisine.



After being seated, guests are shortly introduced to a stone slate of cheese and crackers, which proved largely uneventful. The unusual “breadbasket” reads of an apocalyptic version of cheez-its and cheeze wiz. And tastes like it, too.



First & Hope’s design aesthetic is like a remixed version of a Billie Holiday song: as classically elegant as it is modern.



Main plates are exquisitely served as dapper waiters in suspenders or suit vests carefully set plates down at only their most appealing angles.
While meticulously prepared, plates are pricey, ranging in the high twenties to mid-thirties. Side dishes will set guests back even more (6). Sure, prices like these are the norm for upper-end Los Angeles cuisine, but servings at First & Hope linger on the meager end and entrees can be disproportionate.



The lamb chops (30), served with a mashed potato rose were exceptionally cooked - tender and tasty.

The coffee rubbed duck with diced pumpkin and potato mousseline was equally moving in taste, but was really only five minute’s worth of food. At $27, these four slivers of mouth-melting meat deserve to feel like more than a small plate.






First & Hope is still working out the kinks of recently changing chefs, as well as their menu. In terms of ambience, taste and presentation, it’s off to a fine start. It’s even worth the bit of danger you’ll encounter trying to get there.



First & Hope
710 West 1st Street
Los Angeles, CA
90012
(213) 617-8555
http://www.firstandhope.com/

Tao, Normal Heights

Tao is one of those “can-do-it-all” spirit restaurants with well over sixty dishes on their menu. Specializing in Vietnamese and Japanese cuisine, it’s food that’s cheap and feels healthy.

With most dishes at around eight dollars, dishes range from yakitori or sate kabobs to pho, udon as well as full on vegetarian dishes with no distinctly cultural thumbprint.
While ambitious, Tao’s menu can be cumbersome - not intimidating, but rather hard to pin down in terms of those “must have” dishes.



Upon being seated, customers are served a complimentary salad with Tao’s very own homemade tofu. Dressed in what appears to be a raspberry vinaigrette the field green salad is topped with nuts and flanked by a few tofu crumbles. It’s good eating, but not much to look at. Tao’s tofu has a distinctly flavorful taste and is fresh.



Tao’s ambience is laid back and cozy - perfect for slow rainy days. Above, Tao’s walls are regularly scrawled with both remembrances and benign messages for all to read.



Tao’s entrees are good tasting, generous and feel healthful, but leave a lot to be desired visually. Clearly, the chef prides himself in developing his unique plates, but has room for growth. Above, the mixed vegetables & tofu with sweet citrus sauce has a bright taste, but would be better served by slightly less cooked vegetables. Tao’s tofu preparation, again, is good eating.

Below, the pineapple curry is a carved out pineapple filled with veggies and meatless “chicken.” Having the option of white or brown rice is business as usual, but here brown rice is absolutely unusual. Its mixture of grains and caraway seeds makes it hearty and fragrant. The plate was tastefully citric, but the serving of half a pineapple is overkill.

In general, Tao’s vegetarian dishes would be better served by less saucing. Sure, the sauce is delicious, but not only does it soak into the food detrimentally, its abundance also results in the delivery of messy looking plates. As dishes are brought to your table, you’ll find their sauces have left splashes and rings around your plates, resulting in an unappealing introduction.



At Tao, dessert is also on the house and comes in the form of a scoop of mint and chip or green tea ice cream, fresh fruit and syrup.




Tao’s complimentary dessert and appetizers are a nice touch, but it is ultimately the food’s taste, affordability, and a friendly staff that will atone for presentation as the hostess was friendly and the chef came out numerous times to greet customers.




Tao
3332 Adams Ave
San Diego, CA 92116
http://www.yelp.com/biz/tao-san-diego

Los Angeles: Gobi Mongolian BBQ House

Not too long ago, when Mongolian BBQ joints the likes of Genghis Khan’s became the darlings of food courts everywhere, gluttons rejoiced in the challenge of walking up to a buffet table of cold proteins, vegetables, and sauces to build their own Mongolian masterpiece, to then be stir fried to perfection before their very plate.

Sadly, this challenge was never seen as one of presentation or the meshing of logical good taste. Instead, a perceived victory was defined by helping oneself to the largest helping possible - making sure you had eight dollars of snow peas and meat (after all, they’re the most expensive) on your six dollar plate.

Silverlake’s Gobi Mongolian BBQ is such a place. What makes it different is its modern aesthetic and sit down service.



Gobi’s premise is simple: Grab a bowl. Fill with meats, vegetables, sauces, and noodles. Have it stir-fried. Offering lunch and dinner at $10 and $14, respectively, Gobi strives for quality, using Angus beef, tiger shrimp and all natural lamb, pork, and turkey. Meat comes in the form of thin-carved frozen tubes, which will deceive first timers into thinking they’ve packed more than they end up with.

Vegetables are seasonal and fresh. Sauces include the usual barbecue, but also green curry, Asian pesto, chimichurri, and lemongrass to name a few. Gobi offers a few tips for mixing sauces for optimal flavor.



Included with each serving is a fixing of flat sesame “rolls,” which provided added texture to the stir fry.



While flavor varies on personal choices, the cook is cautious not to overcook vegetables. Dishes remained crunchy and fresh tasting, colors bright and spared of excessive steaming, even the tomatoes survived.



In addition to self-serve Mongolian BBQ, a la carte appetizers and desserts (as well as a generous bar) are available. Below, loose leaf tea is served in an aesthetically pleasant pot/cup set. Gobi’s chocolate molten cake sundae (8), while simply presented,tastes good.

Gobi’s charm is that it’s a handsome place to eat out without pretense. It’s for days when one only feels like going out (but not that much), but can’t stand to stay home. It’s easy and comfortable, but still dining out.



Gobi Mongolian BBQ House
2827 W. Sunset Blvd.(213) 989.0711
http://www.gobimongolianbbq.com/