Sunday, February 27, 2011

Portland Part 2 of 3: Clyde Common

Clyde Common bills itself as domestic and foreign cuisine in a European-style tavern backdrop. Located next to the Ace Hotel, it echoes the hotel’s same Portland hipster aesthetic: communal tables, recycled furniture, minimalist open air design. Dinner choices are limited and market-driven with most entrees are priced at around twenty dollars.

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One of its starters is the fried chicken livers with cress, cucumber, and lemon aioli. Livers were served tender and not at all greasy. The aioli balances out the somewhat nutty taste of breaded liver.

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House bread plays it safe with simple but fluffy foccacia bread and peppered olive oil.

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On its snack list, the fried chicken wings with pomegranate and orange gastrique are tasty, moist, and also fried with restraint.

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Clyde Common stocks a full bar, which doubles as the Ace’s hotel bar.

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Clyde’s duck confit with greens and potatoes dish was a savory selection. Potatoes were crisped at the edges, but tender from within.

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Clyde Common’s tagliatelle with wild boar ragu is an exceptional pasta dish. Below, the half order, is comprised of delicate strands of pasta served beneath hearty chunks of tender boar. Soft goat cheese crumbles brighten up the dish.

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Clyde Common’s savory offerings change often, but offer consistency in terms of rustic cooking done with restraint.

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For dessert, the crepes with butterscotch panna cotta, coffee stewed dates, and chocolate chip ice cream proved light but delicious indulgence.

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While I generally find communal tables to be excellent only in theory, Clyde Common’s energy and ambience is as good as its food. Service is friendly, authentically informative, and surprisingly unpretentious.

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Clyde Common
1014 Southwest Stark Street
Portland, OR 97205

www.clydecommon.com

For more of Portland click here.

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